Tag Archives: Organic

Benromach Contrasts: Organic 2012/2021 (46%, OB, Virgin American Oak, 09/04/21, 210104)

This is the world’s first certified organic Single Malt Scotch Whisky since 2006. Fully UK Soil Association accredited. Words coming from the label of this Benromach. Benromach received certification in October of 2000, and starting distilling right away. They released the first fully certified Organic Whisky in 2006. However, it was Deanston who were certified first, in April of 2000, and started distilling right after summer. However, Deanston’s first release (batch 1) wasn’t bottled until early 2016 as a 15yo. Bottled in February, released in March. Batch 2 was released a year later in 2017. Both matured in Bourbon Casks. 2017 also saw the release of a 14yo Deanston Organic that has been matured in Virgin oak, just like our Benromach, so back to Benromach for now, but I’m sure we’ll see a Deanston Organic grace these pages as well somewhere in the future.

Since such Whiskies, like the “Contrasts”, are released in (big) batches, there are some slight differences in the codes used on the bottles. Codes are often useful for identifying different batches with different characteristics. Looking at you Springbank Distillery. For this particular release I have seen two rotations (but there are probably more): 210191 06.04.2021 (Tuesday) Imported by Schlumberger of Germany and 210104 09.04.2021 (Friday) Imported by Van Wees of The Netherlands. The latter bottle is the one I have here, bottled in the same work week as the “German” bottling, so it is highly unlikely that it contains different Whisky from the Dutch one, but you never know.

Color: Full Gold.

Nose: Sweet, big and grassy. Barley sugar and creamy vanilla. Caramel. The green vegetal note, which I like very much, turns from hay and grass into wood. Smells clean and very nice. It reminds me of how I perceived the smell of Whisky when I was introduced to it a long time ago. This might be a simple Whisky in many books: it is probably only 8 years old, maybe 9 years, it is virgin oak and it is reduced to 46% ABV. But even though virgin oak has been adopted very late in Scotland, a Whisky like this does show some of the essence of what Whisky is all about. Whisky has always been something based on barley, yeast, water and wood. Although the wood was never really virgin oak, no mostly ex-Bourbon barrels and hogsheads and ex-Sherry butts, puncheons and hogsheads. That’s it. Sure this “Contrasts” is named after organic Barley, and it surely does play its part, but Virgin Oak is dominant. It is new wood, that has been charred/toasted, giving off these creamy and grassy notes. Vanillin form the oak mostly, yet also slightly burnt notes like charcoal and cold toast. In this bottling, the wood shows us some wonderful, almost perfumy notes behind this big creamy wall, a wall which luckily has many big holes in it so we can see (smell) beyond. The grass and vegetal traits have great staying power, and sometimes a more perfumy note whiffs by, and sometimes also a more distant greasy and gravy-like note, making it temporarily a bit cheeky and dirty (petrol?). A playful, dare I say, fruity acidity and an overall very rewarding nose. Nothing wrong here, the nose really turned out well.

Taste: Quite a lot of wood and White Wine-like vanilla notes, Definitely virgin oak, which differs considerably from first fill and refill Bourbon casks. Caramel and toffee and lots of different woody notes. Clean fresh oak, sawdust and hits of a burned beam. More of the leather and wood of a classic interior than of something youthful, colorful and fruity. Slightly heavy built. Interesting, but I guess maybe not for everyone. I do hope Benromach continues with the Contrasts: Organic, but will also release versions maturing in refill casks (only) and first fill barrels/hogsheads (only). So to educate ourselves what the influence of the wood was and to better understand the Organic Barley. Also to know of the barley variety would be a bonus to us, maybe in small print as not to distract from the Organic bit which gave this bottling its name. Second sip shows us more of the char the wood received, releasing this bourbon-like vanilla yet also some more woody bitterness. Pencil shavings come to mind now, but also a slight shortcoming in the balance department. Looks like you should bottle Virgin oak early, as I said, it is overpowering and puts more of a stamp on the Whisky than the barley variety ever could. I wonder how the Deanston 14yo (also virgin oak, would fare in the bitterness department, since it was aged almost twice as long). I do understand the restraint about using virgin oak in the past. It does overpower and the Whisky also does show a lack of complexity, yet it is still fun. If you also like your Bourbons than chances are you might like a virgin oak Scotch as well, not saying its similar to Bourbon, because it isn’t, if only based on the ingredients used.

Looks like the contrast series could be a very interesting series, also an educational one. The last review I did of a “Contrasts”, focused on a barley variety called Cara Gold. This time around no mention of any barley variety, but organic it sure is.

Are you experienced? In a way that you can approach any Whisky with an open mind, I assure you, you won’t be disappointed with this one. You won’t believe how many people discard a Whisky beforehand because of the price or bases on assumptions. These Benromachs are fun and also quite inexpensive. When this bottle will be empty I will be very happy to replace it with another contrasts. Sure, this Whisky was recorded in Mono. It is clean and virgin oak. End of story.

Points: 83

Loch Lomond 17yo Organic (54.9%, OB, First Fill Bourbon Casks, L2 120 18, 30.04.2018)

After all those unhealthy and environmentally unfriendly products we have been putting into our bodies, finally some Organic Single Malt Whiskies start to emerge onto the market sporadically. The first Organic Malt I reviewed on these pages was an Organic Bruichladdich, This Loch Lomond is just the second. I have checked my stash, but I could only find a 12yo Organic Loch Lomond and a 14yo and a 15yo Organic Deanston, and that’s about it, no more. I should investigate if there are some more to get. I know there were a few Springbanks and some (young) Benromachs, but beyond that, who knows? Apart from the Deanston’s, this is the only well aged one out there. I did some quick and dirty research, so don’t expect something very deep now, but Nc’Nean also has Organic Whisky in its portfolio, but after that, its mostly American made Whisk(e)y that is also organic. Quite surprising from the land of fast food and a huge overweight problem. Wall-e was no joke. And before you start sending me hate-mail, or even worse, Will Smith, I’m quick to add that I am overweight as well. The Organic Bruichladdich was young and simple, easy, yet tasty. Scored rather high, since it was a high quality Malt, but could have done with some more ageing. Well, if you are after a better aged Organic Malt, than a 17yo Loch Lomond is quite a step up! Yes Loch Lomond, ahhh no, please no, you’re not going to talk about a certain Captain now, don’t you? Well, OK, let’s not. I’ll finish off this introduction with the fun fact that this was distilled in a combination of a swan neck and a straight neck pot stills.

Color: Light gold.

Nose: Barley, dusty and woody. Classic Bourbon casked Single Malt Whisky nose. Sure, we’ll throw in Organic as well, although I have no clue whatsoever how “Organic” is supposed to taste. Smells very clean and honest. Artisanal. A bit sweetish as well, resembling, bot only in a small part, a Grain Whisky. A nice combination of dust, wax and light citrus skin notes. Fruity and lively. In a way delicate and also a bit old skool. Soft wood, mocha and slightly spicy. Light smell of an old aired out, weathered, stock cube. All nice and well integrated. Better now than when freshly opened. Sometimes a short soapy whiff passes by. After a while in my glass even more balance is reached between a waxy note that got company from some peanuts and more fruits. By far, the best smelling Loch Lomond I ever had. You probably think it’s the only Loch Lomond I ever had, but this is not the case. Not at all. Especially nice when you are of an older generation, like me, and remember the old stuff filled from an Ex-Bourbon cask. A classic. The spicy notes in this nose are just excellent, especially when this is sniffed outside. Fresh air helps this one along quite a bit. Great stuff for sure.

Taste: Sweet on entry, The spicy notes from the nose are right up front here as well. Grassy and wonderful. Here it is a bit accompanied by some licorice. Creamy yet also a bit hot. A slight metallic note, reminding me of Tormore. In fact, if I would have tasted this one blind, I would have probably thought this was a Tormore. Tormore distillates in casks like these perform rather well IMHO. Similar spices too. Both this and such Tormore’s bring a smile to my face. These suit me very well, but that is a personal thing, and might not be true for you. Again, what an amazing balance this Whisky has. Nothing short of a must-have for me. Perfect for some quiet me time (and a book). After the first sip, the nose develops even more in the cavity of your mouth. Good quality stuff this one. Amazing, remember the times when Loch Lomond had this awful reputation, well they certainly managed to turn that around with this one. Well done! Medium body with all these wonderful woody, spicy and woody aroma’s. The ABV of almost 55% carries this Whisky beautifully. Really good stuff. Must find me another one.

This Whisky is very good. When consumed carelessly, often within a flight of other Whiskies, I didn’t pick up on the all the wonderful bits this Whisky has on offer. When reviewing it, it is usually reviewed on its own (on occasion H2H with another somewhat similar example for comparison). For obvious reasons, one tends to give the subject a lot of attention when reviewing. So, when this is given your full attention, this Whisky reveals a lot more than meets the eye at first. It deserves to have your full attention and you might also give it some time to breathe and you’ll be able to pick up on some delicate and wonderful old skool classy aroma’s. Recommended.

Points: 89

Spirit of Hven Backafallsbyn “Organic Gin” (40%, OB, Sweden)

Avid followers know that in october, Master Quill likes to go to the Whisky Show in London, England. Up ’till now there has always been something that really surprises. A few years back Tomatin surprised with a lot of non-1976 bottlings. Another year, a lot of offerings from Benromach were a discovery, and this year (2015) was the year of Indian Distiller Paul John. Especially their single cask bottlings were stellar. Even a Boutique-y Paul John was fantastic! However, hidden in a corner of the room, next to the coffee stand near the entrance, were three Swedes. They didn’t even had a real stand, but they used a cask as a table and put some Erlenmeyer flasks with colored stuff on top. I have to say, I met some driven and passionate people doing the Spirit of Hven. Spirit of Hven is not only a distillery, but it is also a hotel, a restaurant, Whisky bar and chemistry lab! Mad scientist with a passion for booze? I like that! So apart from Paul John, the discovery of the year was this Spirit of Hven Gin. Go figure!

Gin is an interesting product, since Gin can be made rather quickly, you don’t have to wait ages to see how it turns out. Nice stuff to experiment with and make it personal, by thinking up and combining different botanicals. This Gin has its obvious basis of Swedish Juniper and citrus. Other botanicals include Grains of Paradise, Aniseed, Calamus Root, Mauritian Bourbon Vanilla, Cassia bark, Cardamom, Sichuan Pepper and Guinea Pepper (dried fruit), not to be confused with Grains of Paradise which is also known as Guinea Pepper (ground seed). The Gin is oak aged prior to the final distillation, so the influence of wood is another ingredient.

HVEN Organic GinColor: Clear water.

Nose: Laid back and sweet-smelling juniper. Toned down by some sweet carrots and hidden vanilla. You know it’s there but somehow in disguise. Soft vanillin from wood maybe? Sure it is a Gin, with juniper and citrus, like all, but in here the combination smells excellent yet different. The sharpness is shaven off by the hidden vanilla and the promise of sweetness. A bit like a Gin Liqueur, although this might not be sweet tasting at all. Next some grain, black tea and dried grass. It’s still a Gin, so not extremely complex, but this one is so well-balanced. It’s hard to put down and stop smelling. Very soft and mellow with a nice floral touch and some sweet spices and soft wood to finish it off. Pine forest (floor) after autumn rain.

Taste: The first sip is of sweet grain and paper. The basis is there. It has notes of Vodka, a very smooth and soft Vodka. Next come the juniper, sweet oaky vanilla and well-integrated soft citrus note as well as a hint of caramel. Towards the finish we’re most definitely in the territory of sweet licorice. Laurel licorice. It’s a honeyed kind of sweetness, so more depth than sugary sweet. I use “sweet” a lot, but let me assure you that this comes nowhere near Gin Liqueur and not even an Old Tom. The finish has quite a bit of length and finally it leaves you with a nice anise and licorice aftertaste. Wonderful sipping Gin.

This is the first Gin on these pages and for a long time there was a good reason for that. Gin usually winds up in a cocktail or in a Gin-and-Tonic and I am a drinker and taster of Spirits. When Gin gained popularity the last few years I obviously got the chance to try some very nice Gin-and-Tonics, the way I like my Gin the best. It all went wrong when I started trying Gins by themselves. Nipping them, say, like a Whisky. Well, I can assure you, Gin is no Whisky! So Gin seemed to be not for nipping, so I left it alone for a while. I did find some nice Gins though, that worked well in Gin-and-Tonics. Hendricks with Fever Tree is nice, but Zuidam aged Gin with Indi Tonic, was a lot better. The Zuidam aged Gin was the first Gin I liked by itself, so I decided not to give up on Gin (as a sipper) yet. And then I encountered this Organic Gin. Wonderful stuff. With this one I never got passed the sipping stage, it’s that good. I do hope I have enough left to try it with Tonic though. Recommended!

Points: 78 (and believe me, that is a lot of points for a Gin by itself)

Benromach 2008/2014 “Organic” (43%, OB, Virgin Oak)

Not really a NASser since this is a vintage 2008 bottling. We also know this was bottled in 2014 so it is a 5yo or 6yo. Benromach doesn’t like hide its Whiskies in a shroud of mystery. Of course I love an aptly named Whisky but I was brought up with age statements so I like to (officially) know what I’m getting. Maybe all those NASsers are for a younger, more hip, generation? We’ll see. This “Organic” was distilled in 2008 and filled into virgin oak casks, just like they do with Bourbon spirit. Don’t worry, this will not turn this Whisky into a bourbon since only malted barley was used, and no corn nor rye. Why not make a rye Whisky then Benromach, wouldn’t that be something different and exiting?

Benromach Organic 2008Color: Gold

Nose: Yes woody. Sawdust, but also vanilla and warm vanilla pudding. Custard. I would say American Oak, wouldn’t you? Sugary sweet. The apparent sweetness is balanced out with some spicy oak, but not all oak is spicy, it also has a sappy oak quality to it. Sweet barley. Given some time, (when the taste becomes waxy), the nose tuns more floral. Floral with sandalwood.

Taste: Sweet at first, then vanilla and a more fruity note. Still all sugared fruits. Behind that the oak comes in again, but it’s not all wood alas, The wood also emits a cardboardy taste. Luckily that is soon exchanged with the sappy oak. That sappy oak turn a bit waxy and that in turn becomes a bitter edge into the finish. The bitterness also has some staying power. The finish is rather austere, so its quite different from the sweet start. The florality and waxiness of the nose, becomes also evident in the aftertaste.

For a Whisky this age and only new wood was used, this has already picked up a lot of color (as do Bourbons). Nosing and tasting this Whisky it really is what you may have expected. A Whisky that is defined by the use of new wood. Otherwise quite sweet and obviously not very complex, but more than expected.

Points: 82